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Contents:
  1. Remembering Sheila Lukins
  2. Top Authors
  3. Our Seven Favorite Jewish Cookbooks | tranbachondnebunk.gq | tranbachondnebunk.gq
  4. This Week in Restaurant News: Cookies in the Central District and a Deli in Lake City

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Remembering Sheila Lukins

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Top Authors

Tags: trends deli mile end trends newsletter More. Most Viewed Stories. The fresh root is available in New York City markets most of the year because it stores well. But it is an early spring specialty, and for many people freshly grated horseradish is strictly a Passover treat. There are two kinds of grated horseradish sold in bottles and jars: the fully pungent white type and the red type, colored and slightly sweetened with beet juice.

Nowadays, the company is in Hempstead, New York, on Long Island, and it has diversified into bottled horseradish sauce, mustard to which horseradish is related , salsa, and other condiments, all nationally distributed.

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Freshly grated horseradish has a very different flavor than jarred, which is preserved with salt and vinegar. This is not to diminish the appeal of jarred horseradish. On the other hand, there is a discouraging fact about freshly grated horseradish: it loses its pungency very quickly, even within minutes, and its color turns an unappetizing gray unless it is preserved with vinegar please note: regular white vinegar is made from wheat and not kosher for passover use, though imitations and other varieties are available , just like the bottled variety.

Hand-grated horseradish with vinegar should keep for at least several weeks in the refrigerator before turning gray. If you want to serve freshly grated plain horseradish, it must be put on the table immediately after it is grated. If you grate fresh horseradish in a food processor, be careful when you open the processor bowl.

Our Seven Favorite Jewish Cookbooks | tranbachondnebunk.gq | tranbachondnebunk.gq

The fumes of horseradish-like its cousin, mustard-can burn your eyes or sinus passages. All the old recipes for potato kugel come out sort of heavy and gluey, which is not at all how good kugels taste today. These days, the kugel sold in the take-out shops and delicatessens, not to mention those made at home by modern balabustas, are still full of good onion flavor but they are high and light.


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What may seem like an inordinate number of eggs is the secret. Lots of eggs are definitely the ticket to lightness. Drier russets produce a fluffier kugel. Incidentally, this is a very low-fat recipe. Besides serving potato kugel as a side dish for meat or poultry or fish, a larger portion of this egg-rich version makes a good lunch.

This Week in Restaurant News: Cookies in the Central District and a Deli in Lake City

The kugel reheats extremely well in a F oven, uncovered so the top can re-crisp. Reheating time depends on the size of the piece being reheated and the temperature of the kugel before it goes into the oven. It can be kept in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for at least 4 days, and for several months in the freezer.

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It is best to defrost in the refrigerator before reheating. When it was given to me, this recipe originally specified flour, not matzo cake meal. Research for the project took me to almost every great deli in America where I noshed on more pastrami than my stomach cares to remember.


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Good delis need a certain kind of ethnic neighborhood to support them: Jews of Eastern European heritage, Poles, Lithuanians and Russians, in particular, according to Jewish studies professor Marc Dollinger of San Francisco State University. The Jews who arrived in San Francisco in great numbers during the Gold Rush were primarily of central European mostly German heritage, and their residential patterns, says Dollinger, were different from their co-religionists on the East Coast who lived in neighborhoods with delis on almost every street.

This Bay Area deli renaissance comes at a time when scholars say the American deli tradition itself is actually fading. The decline is stemming from assimilated Jewish populations and changes in dietary and health awareness that render, for many Jews, the heavy East European deli menu verboten.

It is perhaps ironic that our beloved but declining Jewish ghetto food tradition is being resuscitated by the alumni of the Gourmet Ghetto. At both delis the pastrami is served hot, and it is delicious, according to the customers who keep coming back for more—if not once a day or week like in the old days when fat was still good, then more than once in a while.